2. Putting your wetsuit on properly
The most common mistake beginner surfers make is putting their wetsuits on backwards or even inside out! Since no one has shown you how to correctly put on a wetsuit, it's actually quite easy to make this mistake.
All logos should be on the outside of the suit, and if the wetsuit has a long vertical zip then the zip should be at the back of the suit. These things should be correctly aligned if the wetsuit is on a hanger. Wetsuits with a smaller horizontal zip are chest zip wetsuits, and hence the zip should be at the front. Be sure to tuck your boots, gloves, and/or hood into your suit if you plan to wear them for colder waters.
3. Having your leash on the right foot
Again, a very simple mistake to make. Your leash should always be on your back foot. Regular-footed people will wear the leash on their right foot, and goofy people will wear it on their left foot.
A leash's position depends on its size. If it is a regular size leash, it will go around your ankle. The most popular type of leash is an ankle leash. SUPs and longboards may come with calf leashes, which can be distinguished by their circumference.
Correct duckdiving technique can save you a lot of energy and enable you to have a more productive surfing session. Surfing on a longboard or mini mal can be challenging if you don't master the rolling technique of duck-diving waves, also known as an eskimo roll. Generally, these boards are too large to push under a wave like a shortboard would.
When riding a shortboard, you'll want to master the duck-dive technique where you need to push the nose of the board under the surface of the water and then push the back of your board beneath the surface of the water to allow you to smoothly glide beneath the incoming wave.
5. Timing your take off
Timing the takeoff takes a long time to master. Surfers who are inexperienced tend to paddle into waves in an inexperienced manner. They will often take off too early, and by the time they stand up, the wave has passed them by.
In other cases, they'll have popped up too late, and the wave will have already broken. Experience is required to time the takeoff correctly. If you're going to miss the take-off time, it's better to be too early rather than too late, as you still have a chance to catch the wave if you're too early.
There are so many things on your mind when you're learning to surf. How to position yourself in the water. How to turn. How to position yourself on the board. Paddling properly. When to pop up. The list goes on. The fact that beginner surfers disregard so many key aspects of the sport is no surprise.
Surfing is all about being aware of those around you. Make sure you have priority before paddling into a wave, and before dropping in, make sure there is no one else around you that might collide with you.